Seiko Presage: A Closer Look At One of the Best Japanese Watch Collections

When Seiko launched Presage to the international market in 2016, the Japanese watchmaking conglomerate had two grand plans. The first one was to position Grand Seiko as an independent brand in the premium category. The second aim was to create a dedicated mechanical watch line under the Seiko brand to cater to both mid-price and luxury ranges.

This series has been known for its long-valued Japanese aesthetic vision, excellent quality and enduring performance. Within a short span, Seiko Presage has turned into a core range of finely crafted automatic mechanical watches. Perfectly embodying Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, this collection draws inspiration from both vintage and contemporary designs. It proudly reflects the country’s enduring love for its traditional values. These much-loved timepieces are meticulously crafted according to the latest standards and using high-quality in-house movements.

Presently, this remarkable collection is comprised of about 100 models grouped under two distinct categories: the Basic line and the Prestige Line.

Presage Basic Line

The Basic line represents the entry-level Presage Seiko watches with an average retail price ranging from S$ 500 to S$ 1,000. These automatic models are usually equipped with 4R series movements. They typically feature centrally-placed hour, minute and seconds hands. The extensive collection offers several variants with or without additional complications.

This segment starts with the popular Presage date watches. Driven by the 4R35 self-winding movement, they are available with a date display at 3H, 4.30H or 6H depending upon the variant.

The next model in the list is the Presage open-heart watch. There are two open-heart versions: the first one has a round opening on the dial at 9 o’clock, revealing the beating heart of the movement, the automatic calibre 4R38. In the second version, along with this circular dial-opening, you will find an overlapped 24-hour sub-dial. This watch is equipped with the 4R39 calibre.

The Basic line also includes an atypical model that incorporates a centrally-placed power reserve hand and a date sub-dial. This unique model uses the 4R57 automatic movement.

Available with silvery or gold-toned stainless steel cases, these mid-priced Seiko mechanical watches are fitted with Hardlex or sapphire crystal glasses.

The Basic range offers several dial designs, including fume (‘dégradé) and patterned. In the patterned dial segment, the series offers circular, sun-ray, vertical and wavy designs. Among them, the best-selling Seiko Presage Cocktail watches are inspired by the enchanting world of urban bars.

Depending upon the version, the finishing of the dial details and indicators vary. Both hour and minute hands are either lancet or leaf-shaped. Most of the models have plain bezels and do not employ luminescent coating on the hands and indices. There are some notable exceptions too. The Presage models inspired by the 1960s Seiko Crown Chronograph are fitted with diving style bezels and feature Lumibrite on the hands and indexes.

Presage Prestige line

The prestige series is typically comprised of Presage watches with an average retail price range starting from S$ 1,000 to S$ 5,000. This category includes automatic watches with upgraded calibre families like 5R, 6R and 8R.

The ‘three-hand with the date’ versions are equipped with self-winding 6R15, 6R35 or 6L35 movements. It is worth mentioning that the Seiko 6L calibre series offers thinner movements in comparison with the 6R family. The Seiko Presage automatic watch model with power reserve and date is driven by the Caliber 6R27.  The brand uses the 6R21 self-winding movement to equip the version with power reserve and day-date displays. The automatic watch with power reserve indicator and retrograde day-date is driven by the 6R24 caliber.

The presage chronograph model houses the Seiko self-winding 8R48 column-wheel movement. The GMT watch features the automatic 6R64 calibre.

These premium watches are available in stainless steel and titanium case versions. Some models feature ‘Dia Shield’ coating. In the stainless steel category, black hard-coated and gold-plated versions are also present. All models are fitted with sapphire crystal glasses. Most watches in this category have plain edges except the GMT model, which comes with an exterior graduated 24-h bezel. At present, Presage prestige line offers men’s timepieces only.

This segment offers luxurious dials like sharp-edged patterned, enamel, porcelain and urushi-lacquer. These dials perpetuate various aesthetic traditions preserved by Japanese craftsmen. They typically have lancet or leaf-shaped hands for indicating hours and minutes. Some models feature spade-shaped hour hands. These Presage watches are available with or without luminescent application.

Summary

All Presage watches are equipped with the tried and tested mechanical self-winding movements made in-house. These calibers also have manual-winding capability and incorporate the stop-second hand mechanism for ensuring precise time-setting. Once fully wound, the 4R calibers provide a power reserve of 41 hours. The watches equipped with the upgraded (5 and 6 series) movements have power reserves ranging from 45 to 70 hours. 

The Presage Basic line offers several dial options, ranging from the powerful black hue to the gleaming silver and from the intriguing fume shades to the effervescent tones inspired by the cocktails. In the Prestige line-up, enamel, porcelain and lacquer dials usually have refined color themes. In the sharp-edged pattern, you can find an alluring gradient color theme. The Presage watch models with lumed indices and hands usually use Lumibrite, an environment-friendly luminous paint.

The smallest presage wristwatch for men measures 38.3mm in diameter and the largest model is 42.2mm. The other case sizes available are 38.5, 40.5, 40.8, 41.7, 41.8 and 42 (all in millimeters). For ladies, the brand is presently offering two case sizes: 33.8mm and 34.3mm. Depending upon the version, the water resistance rating of the watches can vary from splash-resistant to 10 ATM. All the timepieces from the collection are fitted with transparent case-backs for observing the movement.

The presage watches are available with metal bracelets with links or mesh, fabric wristband or leather (calf-skin or alligator) straps.

Pricing 

Strategically divided into two segments – mid-price and luxury (below the Grand Seiko label) – Presage is in an exceptional series of fine mechanical watches crafted according to the Japanese artistic tradition and the company’s long-established expertise.

The Seiko Presage Singapore price range starts from S$ 500 to S$ 1,000 for the Basic line and from S$ 1,000 to S$ 5,000 for the Prestige line-up. Most watches from the Basic segment, including the popular Cocktail series, are usually available under S$ 700.In the Prestige line-up, the versions with enamel, porcelain and urushi-lacquer dials are comparatively expensive than other models. These models are usually available in the S$ 1,500-4,000 range. The watches with GMT and Chronograph functions also fall in this spectrum. Within this premium category, the brand is offering a number of exclusive Seiko Presage limited edition timepieces that cost above 4,000 Singapore dollars.

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